I'm rolling thunder, fire and rain....

Yesterday the largest waves coming in where easily 10ft and the left held true and long. All the locals were lining the beach and few were paddling out. If you paddled out at the wrong time, the river entering the ocean from the south would push you a quarter mile up the beach. Nolan was unfortunately one of the many causalities, losing the strength to make it out; also, shredding his foot apart on the rocks. (thank goodness for the super glue... The super-est of all the glues!) but totally redeemed himself on the third try.
There is a rock point south of the bay, and when the waves start to barrel out there you know the set is about to come in, so it is a good idea to sit on the beach and wait for the opportune moment to paddle like hell. I was lucky and made it out easily, paddled straight past the line up to the long boarders (for fear of getting a pounding) and thank the lord I did cause a huge set came in and wiped out everyone on the inside.
It really made me realize yesterday that when there is no fear there is no glory. I really wish Lee and Curtis were there with me. Soon!
Today I was sitting inn the line up and saw the barrels come over the rocks and started paddling my heart out. I was the only one who made it past out the set, and it was most definitely bigger that the day before. I was in perfect position for the huge set, but I couldn't bring myself to commit. Looking down a wave that big is so humbling. Especially when everyone on the inside is looking at me wishing they where in my position. To much pressure!!! One of the locals later came out and told me I needed to stop being lame and just go for it. So I did, and easily can say best wave of my life, thus far. The left here just keeps sectioning. It is the longest wave I have yet experienced.

Location:Sayulita